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Making and Stitching on the Gusset |
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Take a strip of stout but supple 2.50mm leather 23" X 10" , mark off the centre points on both sides then mark off a line 6" from either end, see below. |
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Then lay on top the leather one of your clappers so it is level with the end of the leather, mark out the leather using the edge of the clapper up to the 6" line, this gives you the best shape to where the leather will stitch on to the clapper later, see above. |
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Picture above shows the two ends of the gusset and the sizes they need to be, this is important for stitching them around the front of the bellows later, the narrower end goes on top of the wider end. |
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Picture above shows the line of the narrower end of the gusset, again draw and blend in the tail end of one side of the gusset, up to the 6 inch line, 1/8 " less on either side is enough. |
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Picture above shows the gusset being marked out as the clapper was, using the same distance gaps between stitches as the clapper, also make sure the holes are about 1/4" from the edge. |
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For thread I use a 1.00mm woven Kevlar cord called tiger thread that any good saddler uses for their harness work, needles are saddlers No. 2, see below. A tip, do not use waxed twins made from hemp for this job, because it will break long before you finish, wasting you all your hard work, Kevlar thread is far superior and will never rot.
Before you stitch on the leather, you will need to make holes in it so the needle can pass through easily, use a saddlers awl and a piece of poly foam behind for the needle to go into, see below, don't use your leg as a pin cushion.
Picture above shows the clapper board and where to start stitching, using a saddle stitch, that's a given length of thread with a needle at each end, and cross over on each hole, see picture below, you will need two pairs of these, one for either run. In the picture above you can see that there is a second groove on the inside of the clapper, this makes for a tight seal as the leather bites down into it as you stitch along giving a very good air tight joint, re-wax your thread regularly as this helps to prevent it slipping back after you have pulled it tight. Start from the wide end of the board in the centre and work your way around until you reach the two lines on either side opposite the outlet pipe and stop stitching and leave your needles attached. Then work your way around from the other side, with a fresh length of thread and 2 more needles until you reach the line again, stop stitching, now stitch one hole at a time until you have an even number of holes left from the hinge area, marked on the clapper as two joined lines right in the middle. Place the narrower end of the gusset tail over the wide end and sew through both pieces of leather and continue on sewing round the curve until you reach the marks round the end and on the opposite side and tie off, now repeat this process from the opposite side, so you have sewn over the hinge area twice, you will need the help of a pair of pliers to pull the needles through at this stage and possibly throughout the whole sewing procedure. A tip, it might be advantageous to reposition the thread from time to time along the last six inches or so, so it does not become weakened by the needle eyelet as it is pulled through each time and cut through, thus saving you threading the needle again and again. Before you start stitching in the second clapper board, sew up the doubled over hinge area in a square, then sew in the second clapper as per the first, remember count your holes and keep things equal. |
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Picture above shows the finished hinge end of the bellows, notice how far round the tails reach, some trimming of the tails may be required, when stitching round the front end of the bellows always count how many holes you have left or you could run out of holes in the gusset. For those who succeed in making a set of stitched bellows, will then appreciate how much work goes into making them, Happy stitching. |
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