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Makato Nakatsui, Tokyo Japan

 
   

The full set shown below was made by Bagpipeworks full time pipe making student Makoto Nakatsui, in just

under three months this includes bag bellows and Deluxe chanter with wooden reed cap.

 

Every part was created by hand in almost the same way as the old makers, using the minimum of machinery

this way one can gets a true feeling of all the raw materials being used, once you fully understand what it takes to

make a full set of pipes which look just right, then after a little patina has adhered itself to the set, it will look just

like an old set.

 

Makoto has achieved this and more and will go on to make things with confidence, knowing that everything

should works as it was intended and how to work round any obstacles should they arise, using modern

machinery removes a lot of the hands on feel for making certain items, like hand turning gives you, a metal

lathe has its place, but cannot give one the flowing curves like that of a hand turned mount, I truly believe that 

using a wood lathe gives one this freedom, wooden parts that are turned on a metal

lathe look very clinical on the eye.

 

Makoto has surpassed all expectations in every field of pipe making, metalwork was his favourite

subject, leatherwork and wood turning came a close second, in this field one needs to be able to do

all of the above, hand turning is one of the singly most important parts of making a set of

pipes, the tools must be mastered in order of getting the very best finish on any given type of

timber, the tool must cut the fibres not scrape them away, and presenting the tool to the wood

correctly, saves an awful lot of sharpening up later.

 

We did the regulator key work in my own curved style which I adopted many years ago, after finding that

leaving the chimney height at full wall thickness actually aided tuning afterwards, filing away the top

of the regulator to accommodate the flat key pad reduces the chimney effect and acts rather like 

that when scalloping a chanters tone holes, springing of the keys was also done the traditional way

using the closed rivet design.

 

 

 
 

   

The entire set is made from 0.70mm or 22 gauge hand rolled Nickel Silver ferrules as in the days of old

the timber choice was Ebony, mounts are from Boxwood with curved hand forged regulator key pads, drone

stock is covered in leather over Sycamore like all of my own sets, the leather also acts as the gasket

surface for the bass regulator bar plate, the main set weighs in at only 3lb-9oz, the bag bellows and chanter

another 3lb-4oz, which is a similar weight to an old Coyne or Harrington set.

 

Weight is an important factor in a full set of pipes, if a firm leather is used for the bag, the whole set should sit

comfortably upon the knee without it pulling down, if a strap is needed to hold things aloft, then the set is either

too heavy or the set is not positioned/set up properly.

 

 

 

Makoto's Journey Begins.

 

 
 

 
     
 

 At week 1 we concentrated on forming hand rolled Sterling and nickel silver ferrule, this turned out

to be Makoto's most favourite subject, we started him off with the easiest material Sterling then the hardest

material to master nickel silver, so he had an idea what sort of effort would be needed.

 
     
 

 
     
 

Applying the ready mixed Sterling flux/solder prior to heat soldering a Sterling ferrule, the flux comes in

a ready made syringe, don't make the same mistake as I did once and use normal silver solder, then send it of to

be hallmarked, or it could come back from the assay office crushed beyond recognition, and totally unusable.

 
     
 

 
     
 

Applying the heat and solder to a hand rolled nickel silver ferrule, on the shorter ferrules is it best to apply the flux from the inside of the tube, this way the solder should not contaminate the outside of the tube so much and make cleaning up later much easier.

 
     
 

 
     
 

Cleaning up the ferrule on a tapered home made hardwood mandrel, the slight taper holds the ferrule

firmly in place whilst it is spinning, and as the process moves forward, the heat generated helps to slide things

along the taper, making the ferrule ever rounder.

 
     
 

 
     
 

Above a set of hand rolled Sterling ferrules, Below with two full sets of hand rolled nickel silver ferrules

which he made together, three days hard work.

 
     
 

 
     
 
 
     
 

 
 

 

Above showing the preparation of the rounded edge to the bellows boards, we decided to show Makoto how to make hand

stitched bellows from the off, they are by far the most difficult of their type to make, but much more pleasing

on the eye, the well polished and curved edges catch the light wonderfully, they can also be repaired much

easier than pinned bellows ,this set is made from highly  grained and flamed English walnut and finished

with around twenty coats of traditional Danish Oil,  its low lustre sheen can be added at any

time with an oiled cloth if needed.

 

 
 

   

 
     
 

 Week 5 and 6 involved the making of Makoto's wide bore concert D chanter, and the reamers needed, she is made from

Madagascan ebony with hand rolled nickel silver ferrules and boxwood mounts, behind is a traditionally hand

sewn saddle stitched leather bag with the Swede finish on the outside for grip, banded by a full gain leather band, which is

triple glued then sewn  by hand, using tiger thread a modern woven Kevlar miniature rope like material, which will not

stretch or creep once its pulled down tight.

 
     

     

     
 

Week 6  to 8 involved the making of his drones, also the jig for drilling the drone stock holes, again fitted with

hand rolled nickel ferrules including all returns throughout, which is an art in itself in getting the rolling just

right so the tube does not split or kink when bent, we now have that process on a DVD available, click here for CD.

 
     
 

 
     
 

 Using a Fein Multimaster saw for cutting the regulator key slots, these machines are quick, accurate and easy to

use and again give you the hands on skills needed for building by hand, using a very thin 0.25mm blade, they are

similar to the saws used in hospital for removing plaster casts, we used to use a fine bladed gents saw for this operation

but now prefer using the cutting disc.

 
     
 

 
     
 

Weeks 9 and 10, involved the construction of his regulators minus their keys, the bass bar/separator

tube and reed cap shown here are also made from hand rolled 0.70mm flat stock, this is where the real skill

comes to the fore, especially the bass drone return tube, which will show if there is any flaws in your soldering skills .

 
     
 

   

 
 

   

 
     
 

The regulators are based upon an extrapolated design from a Harrington C set, they are of a narrow bore

design which complements both the wide bore concert D and narrow bore or flat D chanters, Makoto made

all three regulators and their keys without any problems first time out.

 

The keys were all hand forged from 4 x 4mm stock, with traditionally hammered and secured with

traditionally closed rivets.

 

On a closing note, Makoto is now equipped to become a top maker in his own right, and I am proud to have had such a

gentlemanly figure stay here with us, he becomes part of a long line of craftsmen and piping related persons

which include the late and great Brendan Breathnach, Ted Colgan, Peter Hunter and myself.

 

We wish him the best of luck in the coming future and long may he make good quality pipes.

 

If this story wets your appetite for doing the same, I would be only too happy to share this knowledge with you.

 

Davy Stephenson.

 
     
     
 

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